Lucknow is caught in a time warp. It exists in an in-between land of the
past and the present looking back constantly to the memories of a
colonial-Nawabi past. There is at the same time a sense of pride at the
thought of being after Delhi, the most important center of power in free
India. Politics has indeed been Lucknow's forte but culture has been its
historical identification.
Nawabi Legacy
Despite
the Indo-Persian legacy, Lucknow has a composite Indian culture. The welding
of various cultural strains nurtured by centuries of Mughal and later Delhi
Sultanate rule, to the folk traditions of the Indo-Gangetic plains has
produced a complex, yet rich synthesis. The Urdu language acquired its
baffling phonetic nuances and suave perfection here. It was in Nawab Wajed
Ali Shah's court that the most advanced of all classical Indian dance forms,
the Kathak, took shape. The popular Parsi theatre originated from the Urdu
theatre of this city. The tabla and the sitar were first heard on the
streets of Lucknow.
Naming Lucknow
Lucknow-the name can be traced to the epic Ramayana. After 14 years of
exile when Lord Ramchandra returned to Ayodhya, he gifted this place to his
younger brother Lakshman. Lakshman is believed to have stayed in Lakshman
Teela, a high ground near the banks of the river Gomti. Later the region was
named after him; 'Lucknow' is derived from the name Lakshman. There are
other stories that do the rounds: Lucknow was named after a very influential
person called 'Lakhan Ahir' who built the fort 'Qila Lakhan'. The name 'Qila
Lakhan' later became Lucknow. Some other source says that one Lakhu Khan who
was earlier a non-Muslim by name Laxman Singh has lent his name to Lucknow.
Old City
The ravages of time has left its mark on Chowk, the oldest street of
Lucknow. But a walk through of the streets is still a memorable experience
because of the series of unfolding scenes. The rhythm of hammers beating
silver into paper, the smell of flowers, the fragrance of ittar, the
fineness of chikan embroidery and the mouthwatering aroma of roasting meat
at a kabab shop. Venturing beyond the streets into the bylanes you confront
a private world of courtesans' houses with their many stories and anecdotes,
past and present.
The
Raj Connection
In the annals of Indian history, Lucknow forms the traditional link between
tradition and modernity, the decline of the Mughals and the rise of the
British. The timing of its rise, however, cut short Lucknow's cultural
effluence. The land of etiquette and manners, of the 'pehle aap' tehzeeb
received a serious jolt with the siege of the British Residency during the
great revolt in 1857. Eager for revenge, the last Nawab Wajid Ali Shah,
proved a suitable scapegoat. Awadh was annexed on the pretext of
administrative failure and the Nawab was packed off to Calcutta with a
pension.
